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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.